Hot Towel Shaves & Razor Bumps: What Every Man Should Know

There is something different about getting a professional hot towel shave. The warm towel, shaving lather and straight razor can turn a regular grooming service into an experience.

But the closest shave is not always the best shave for your skin.

As a licensed barber in Harlem, I have worked with plenty of men who want that smooth, clean-shaven look. I have also worked with men whose skin simply cannot tolerate a close razor shave.

This is especially important for Black men and men with coarse or curly facial hair because they can be more prone to razor bumps.

Understanding your skin and how your facial hair grows can make the difference between a clean shave and days or weeks of irritation.

What Causes Razor Bumps?

Razor bumps, medically known as pseudofolliculitis barbae, can develop when a shaved hair curves back toward the skin and becomes ingrown.

Coarse and curly facial hair is particularly susceptible to this. That is one reason I see razor bumps more frequently among Black men and other clients with coarse or tightly curled facial hair.

In my experience, several things can contribute to the problem:

• Shaving too close

• Shaving against the grain

• Going over the same area too many times

• Applying too much pressure

• Dry shaving

• Using a dull blade

• Poor shaving technique

Dirty or improperly maintained tools can create their own skin problems, but every bump after a haircut or shave should not automatically be blamed on "dirty clippers." Razor bumps and infections such as folliculitis are different conditions, although they can sometimes look similar.

As a barber, I don't try to diagnose a client's skin condition. If something looks severe, persistent or outside of what I normally see from shaving irritation, I recommend seeing a dermatologist.

Why Are Razor Bumps So Common in Black Men?

It comes down largely to the way the hair grows.

When coarse, curly facial hair is cut very close to the skin, the sharp end of the hair can curl back and penetrate the skin as it grows. The body then reacts to that hair, producing the bumps and inflammation many men recognize after shaving.

That is why chasing the closest possible shave can sometimes make the problem worse.

Some men want their face completely smooth. Their skin may be telling them that isn't the right grooming routine for them.

How I Perform a Hot Towel Shave

When I perform a hot towel shave at Kutz for Kings, preparation is an important part of the service.

I start by wetting the client's face with warm water and applying a cleanser to remove dirt, oil and dead skin. Then I place a hot towel over the face for about one to two minutes.

The heat and moisture help soften the beard. That makes the facial hair easier for the razor to cut without pulling as much on the hair. The hot towel also adds to the comfort and relaxation of the service.

After removing the towel and cleanser, I apply a pre-shave product followed by shaving soap that I work into a lather.

My first pass with the razor is generally with the grain, meaning I shave in the direction the hair naturally grows.

If the client's skin can tolerate a closer shave, I may make a second pass across the grain. Some clients can tolerate an extremely close shave and request a pass against the grain.

That isn't something I recommend for everybody.

Once the shave is finished, I apply a light aftershave balm to help soothe the skin.

Is Shaving Against the Grain Bad?

Not necessarily for every man.

I have clients whose skin can tolerate an extremely close shave without developing bumps or significant irritation.

But if you are already prone to razor bumps, shaving against the grain may not be worth chasing that extra closeness.

The smoother the shave, the shorter the hair is being cut. For someone with curly facial hair, that can increase the opportunity for the hair to grow back into the skin.

Sometimes leaving a little hair is the better option.

Should You Get a Straight-Razor Shave If You Already Have Razor Bumps?

This is where I draw a line in my own chair.

If I see that a client already has significant razor bumps, I will not give him a straight-razor shave over the affected area.

I would rather turn down the service than make an existing problem worse.

I can use trimmers to bring the facial hair down while leaving it slightly above the skin. If the condition is severe or keeps returning, I recommend that the client speak with a dermatologist.

Even trimmers can cause problems if you cut the hair extremely close. The goal for someone who is highly susceptible to ingrown hairs shouldn't necessarily be getting the hair as short as humanly possible.

Can Shaving More Often Actually Reduce Razor Bumps?

This one surprises a lot of people.

Sometimes shaving more frequently can actually help.

The reasoning is that if you allow curly facial hair to grow longer, the hair has more opportunity to curl back toward the skin. Shaving more regularly can prevent it from reaching that point.

That does not mean every man with razor bumps should start shaving every day. If shaving itself is causing significant irritation, continuing to shave irritated skin may make matters worse.

Your shaving technique, how close you're cutting the hair and how your individual skin responds all matter.

Common Shaving Mistakes I See Men Make

A lot of irritation comes from trying too hard to get the perfect shave.

One of the biggest mistakes is repeatedly shaving the same area. A man feels a little stubble, goes over it again, feels another hair and goes over it again.

Eventually, he isn't just removing hair. He's irritating the skin.

Pressing too hard creates a similar problem. A sharp razor should do the cutting. You shouldn't need to force it against your face.

Dry shaving, using a dull blade and shaving against the grain when your skin cannot tolerate it can also increase irritation.

Preparation matters just as much as the razor itself.

Does a Hot Towel Prevent Razor Bumps?

I wouldn't tell a client that a hot towel alone prevents razor bumps.

What it does is help prepare the beard for shaving.

Warmth and moisture soften the facial hair, making it easier to cut. Combine that with proper preparation, a good lather, a sharp blade and shaving with the grain, and you're giving yourself a much better shaving environment.

The technique still matters.

What Should You Do After a Shave?

I recommend keeping the face clean and avoiding unnecessary irritation afterward.

In the shop, I finish my hot towel shaves with a light aftershave balm. At home, pay attention to how your skin reacts to the products you're using. Something that works perfectly for another man may irritate your skin.

If you're constantly dealing with bumps, inflammation, discoloration or ingrown hairs despite changing your shaving routine, that's when I would recommend seeing a dermatologist rather than continuing to experiment with increasingly aggressive shaving techniques.

How Often Should You Get a Professional Hot Towel Shave?

For someone whose skin handles razor shaving well, I think a professional hot towel shave about once a week can work fine.

But I wouldn't put every client on the same schedule.

If you regularly develop razor bumps, the question isn't simply, "How often should I get shaved?"

The better question is, "Should I be getting a razor shave at all?"

For some men, a trimmer that leaves the facial hair slightly above the skin is going to be a better long-term grooming option.

The same idea applies to haircuts. How often you should get a haircut depends on your style and how sharp you want to keep your look.

The Closest Shave Isn't Always the Best Shave

If a new client sits in my chair and tells me, "I want the closest shave possible, but I always get razor bumps," I'm not going to give him the razor shave just because that's what he requested.

I'll explain why.

If his skin is already showing significant razor bumps, I'll recommend using trimmers instead. If the problem is severe or persistent, I'll recommend that he see a dermatologist.

A barber's job isn't just to get the hair as low as possible. Part of being a professional is knowing when not to perform a service.

After years of barbering in Harlem, that's one thing I've learned to respect. Everybody's hair and skin are different.

Sometimes the best shave for your face isn't the closest one.

Looking for a Professional Barber in Harlem?

At Kutz for Kings, I provide professional men's grooming services in Harlem, including haircuts, beard grooming and hot towel shaves, with attention to the client's hair, skin and individual grooming needs.

If you're looking for a Harlem barber who takes the time to understand how you want to look and how your hair responds, you can book your next appointment online with Kutz for Kings.