Why Some Black Men Should Avoid Shaving With a Razor

Some Black men spend years trying different razors, shaving creams and techniques looking for a way to get a close shave without getting bumps.

Sometimes my advice is much simpler:

Stop shaving so close.

I've been a licensed barber in Harlem for more than 10 years, and I've had clients whose skin simply doesn't tolerate being shaved down to the skin. I'm one of them.

I can't use a razor on my own face. Before I grew my beard, I wore a light shadow for years instead of trying to stay completely clean-shaven.

For some men, that's the better solution.

Your Skin May Not Tolerate a Close Shave

If every close shave is followed by bumps and irritation, I don't believe you should keep chasing a baby-smooth shave just because that's what you've always considered clean-shaven.

I've seen what repeated close shaving can look like over time. I've seen men come into the barbershop with dark spots, scarring and crater-like marks on their skin.

When I see that, I'm not thinking about how to get the client's face even smoother.

I'm thinking about how we can stop cutting the hair so close.

For a more detailed explanation of razor bumps and ingrown hairs, read my article about razor bumps in Black men.

What Should You Use Instead of a Razor?

For someone who is highly prone to razor bumps, I prefer to leave a light shadow rather than shave the face completely smooth.

The closest I generally like to go is a 000 blade on a detachable clipper or an adjustable clipper with the lever completely closed.

Depending on the person, I may leave the facial hair even longer.

The point isn't that one particular blade length works for everybody. The point is to stop automatically assuming that the hair needs to be taken all the way down to the skin.

Why I May Avoid Trimmers and Foil Shavers Too

A client might tell me, "I stopped using a razor. I use a foil shaver now."

That doesn't necessarily solve the problem.

A foil shaver can still cut extremely close. So can certain trimmers.

For someone whose skin is very susceptible to bumps and ingrown hairs, I may avoid razors, foil shavers and close-cutting trimmers altogether.

That's something a lot of men don't realize.

They think the problem is the razor itself. Sometimes the bigger issue is how close you're cutting the hair.

A Light Shadow Can Still Look Clean

Not shaving to the skin doesn't mean you have to walk around looking unshaven.

There's a big difference between facial hair that has simply grown out and a deliberately maintained shadow.

You can keep the facial hair short and even while maintaining clean lines and an intentional appearance.

That's what I did for years.

Since I couldn't tolerate a razor myself, I wore a shadow before eventually deciding to grow my beard.

I wasn't trying to figure out how to force my skin to tolerate a closer shave. I found a grooming style that worked with my skin.

That's often what I recommend to clients.

Stop Chasing the Baby-Smooth Feeling

This is probably one of the biggest changes in mindset I recommend.

Some men judge a shave by running their hand across their face afterward.

If they can feel any hair, they don't think the shave was close enough.

But if getting that perfectly smooth feeling is followed by bumps, irritation and ingrown hairs, what are you really gaining?

For someone who is susceptible, leaving a little hair behind may actually produce a better overall appearance.

I'd rather see a client with a clean, even shadow and healthy-looking skin than a perfectly smooth shave followed by another round of irritation.

What If You Already Have Dark Spots or Scarring?

When someone comes into my chair with significant bumps, dark spots, craters or scarring from years of shaving, I recommend two things:

Stop shaving so close and see a dermatologist.

I'm a barber, not a dermatologist.

I can change the way I cut your facial hair, and I can avoid taking it unnecessarily close. But I'm not going to diagnose or attempt to treat significant skin problems.

Once the skin is already showing substantial irritation or scarring, I believe that's something a dermatologist should evaluate.

Do You Have to Grow a Beard?

No.

That's another reason I like the light-shadow option.

Your choices aren't limited to a perfectly smooth face or a full beard.

There's a lot of room in between.

You can wear a very short shadow, slightly heavier stubble or eventually grow a beard like I did. The right choice depends on your skin, facial hair and the look you want.

The important thing is that you're not repeatedly damaging the appearance of your skin just because you believe your face has to be completely smooth.

Can a Light Shadow Look Professional?

Absolutely.

How facial hair is maintained matters.

A short, even shadow with a clean overall appearance can look intentional and professional. For many men, it can look better than a close shave that's constantly leaving the skin irritated.

As a barber, I'm always looking at the complete picture.

Your haircut, facial hair and skin all contribute to how well-groomed you look.

The closest shave isn't automatically the best-looking shave.

When Should You Consider Giving Up the Razor?

If you've tried to maintain a clean-shaven face and repeatedly experience problems after shaving, it may be time to reconsider how close you're cutting your facial hair.

Especially if you're seeing a repeated cycle of:

• Razor bumps and ingrown hairs

• Irritation after close shaving

• Dark marks developing in the same areas

• Scarring or changes in the texture of your skin

At that point, I wouldn't keep experimenting with closer and closer shaving methods.

I'd leave some hair and talk to a dermatologist about what's happening with your skin.

My Advice as a Harlem Barber

I've been cutting men's hair in Harlem for more than a decade, and I don't believe every grooming technique is right for every man.

That includes shaving.

I know firsthand what it's like when your skin doesn't tolerate a razor. I stopped trying to force it. I wore a shadow for years, and eventually I grew my beard.

Sometimes that's the adjustment you have to make.

If shaving close repeatedly leaves your face irritated, you don't necessarily need a better razor.

You may need to stop shaving so close.

If you're in Harlem or the NYC area and want a barber who understands how to maintain facial hair without automatically taking everything down to the skin, you can book an appointment with Kutz for Kings in Harlem.